"Peace is not an absence of war, it is a virtue, a state of mind, a disposition for benevolence, confidence, justice."

-Barouch Spinoza



Thursday, 8 March 2012

Living in Palestine, A tourist in Israel


When you are living in Palestine, you should naturally be a tourist in your neighbor country. However for many Palestinians this is not an option. I am lucky to have the opportunity to go where ever I wish, and choose from many locations for my days off. As it was I decided to be a true tourist in Israel and explore what perception of Israel I would get if I excluded the political side and everything related to work.

One of the biggest clichés is of course to go and bathe in the Dead Sea, so together with a friend I went to Ein Gedi in Israel. The taxi dropped us off at the Central station, where we had to pass through a metal detector and scan our bags before entering. Everything was in Hebrew, so the atmosphere was very confusing and not very tourist friendly, enhanced by the large amount of soldiers walking around with their big weapons all around us. Obviously they are frequent users of the busses, and were also having days off. Yet there were also other people on the ‘Egged bus’, working in Israel but not necessarily from here, replacing the former Palestinian work force. Perhaps the most interesting passengers were the young woman with her baby who stopped and commented to the young soldier “Wait you are American, and you are serving here in the army? That is so cool!”

When the bus dropped us off in the middle of the desert, the first thing you realize is that you literally are in the middle of nowhere. When the bus has disappeared you see how beautiful the desolate place truly is. The people we met at the hotel and the spa, were very used to tourists and extremely helpful. Yet I was constantly looking for the real life, real people and after the ritual sulphur, mud and salt baths, we went to the public beach to watch the less touristy people. Needless to say there were mostly tourists, and we started walking towards the kibbutz for a reality check instead.

Distances in the desert appear much smaller than they are. Nobody walks, not in Israel nor in Palestine, and definitely not in the desert. Half way there we got a ride, because that is what you do the tourist guide normally working in Eilat said. We were dropped off as the Kibbutz pub/ restaurant and it was peaceful, quiet and clean. That can be said of the entire kibbutz, it all looked so normal once you had passed the gate and security control. A wooden deck, people typing on their computers and a group of local guys around 23-25 drinking beer. We went over and talked to them.

The distance between Israel and Palestine appeared much bigger than ever before. In Palestine there are not any resources to finance the tourist industry, collect garbage or many possibilities for us as two young women to talk so freely with men or to drink a glass of wine. However whilst tourism is not as commercial, it seems much more accessible and genuine, because the Palestinian people invite you into their homes and offer you their food and their time.

The day after I was shopping in West Jerusalem, which is the Israeli side. The main shopping street offered many opportunities to make insignificant decisions of unnecessary purchases. It made me feel in control, and it made me feel momentarily happy. Choices equal freedom, and we take it for granted that we can choose what we want for lunch or wear tomorrow, and after a month I was honestly rather bored with falafel . But the selection of choices are not the same in Israel and Palestine, there is not space or time to waste on the things that do not really matter. That is the true value of being a tourist in Israel, through a distance I could see not only where I want to be, but also what it is for me that matters; to live like the people, and understand the struggle and happiness in their lives, to see reality. Living in Palestine is a choice too.

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